Wednesday, August 25, 2010

First Visitor and a Winter Beach Day


My return to Sydney coincided almost exactly with a visit from an old friend from college (let's call her, say, "College Friend"). She booked her Australian trip for August, when her work situation allowed the time off. She back-ended Sydney after her excursions in Brisbane and Alice Springs, and we both crossed our fingers that my visa would come through in time for me to be back for her visit. As it turned out, I made it back to Sydney three days before she did, which was just enough time for me to conquer jet lag and unpack (I thanked her for her visit, as it meant that I actually had to unpack, rather than leaving my suitcases half packed and strewn around the apartment for the next month, as is my sloppy wont).

Her visit has been a great chance to re-visit some fun areas of town, drive out to the Blue Mountains again, and explore places I haven't been yet. I'll share with you a few of our adventures, beginning with our Winter Beach day.

It remains hard to understand that August = winter, but still, we continue to wear scarves, sweaters, boots, and even the occasional coat, so the evidence in favor of winter piles up. Despite the cool weather, College Friend was determined that she was not going to leave Australia without getting in the water. So, we picked the warmest, sunniest day on the forecast and set off for a day at Bronte Beach.

I like Bronte because it's a little beach, which feels much less populated than its more famous neighbor, Bondi. It also seems a bit more pristine, with opalescent water and waves dramatically crashing on the rocks at either end.

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The air temperature was about 18C (64F), and it was sunny, if a bit breezy. We wore hoodies and long pants to the beach, but quickly shimmied into our bathing suits. The water temperature was 16C (61F), so definitely cold, but not polar bear conditions.

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There is a gorgeous little lagoon at Bronte that we decided to swim in and, at first, we felt particularly brave because we were the only ones in there. Soon, we had some company, as about three weathered-looking older folks ventured in. They all looked like they had decades of sun-worship behind them, and I get the sense that this cold-water cleanse was probably a near daily ritual for them. My favorite bathing character was a leathery woman of about 70 who sported a bright pink bikini and blue Speedo swim cap. Our cohorts lasted much longer in the water than we did.

College Friend and I then set ourselves up on the beach for some sunbathing and people watching. Our sweatshirts and then our pants eventually migrated back onto our cold bodies, but we probably sat out for an hour and a half. The most fascinating viewing was all the surfers. Bronte hosts much more skilled surfers than Bondi (where I paddle around from time to time), and they are rather hypnotizing to watch. It was mostly men, but we did spy a few surfer-chicks in the mix, as well. Now that I know the vary basic tenets of surfing, I have a much greater appreciation for what the surfer's were doing out there and how good most of these guys and gals were.

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Eventually, we decided to give the water one last effort, and we went to the Bronte Bath. A lot of the beaches here have pools carved into the side of the beachfront, and they are simply wonderful. They have a continual supply of seawater crashing into them, yet they are great for families, casual bathers, and lap swimmers. There were only a couple people braving the pool on this day, but on warmer days and weekends, they tend to be quite full.

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We soaked in the water, and got to the point where it seemed warmer inside than out, since the sun was beginning to go down, and the wind was picking up.

After changing back into our winter clothes, we were still thoroughly chilled to the bone, though feeling amazingly clean, tingly, rejuvenated, and relaxed. Before heading home, we stopped at one of the coffee shops on the Bronte strip for hot chocolates. And, my heavens, what a hot chocolate it was. Frothy warm milk came in a mug, and the chocolate part was a hunk of candy on a wooden spoon that was stirred in and melted. I can't think of a better way to warm up.

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Next up in First Visitor Tales: Our Quest to Visit All of the "Oldest Bar"s in Sydney.


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